just know Tamiya is solvent based that is water soluable will Vallejo is water based and the two aren't made to mix together ideally. It all boils down to personal preference. I think I can use this stuff after all .That and I can match any color on the color wheel . My experience with Testors has been good so far, but more limited. Also, I have been using more oils as well - they mix, spread, and you can work with them. Indeed! I like Vallejo, though it works best over a primer (or other previous paint), and can rub off if handled too much before it fully cures. Tried Michaels house brand acrylics. Good color selection though . For painting large areas, I use Tamiya rattle cans. Technically, an airbrush can paint a spot smaller than a pin head. I consider it as an emergency use only, when I just cannot find the color or shade I want in my goto paints. I like Tamiya's spray cans a lot, especially their primers. they mix well , dry well , cover well and stick like glue ! Humbrol and the blue Revell squire box paints. ENAMEL'S : Testors, Tamya, Citadel, Humbrol,  plus a few that our now out of production, Floquil, Pactra,ect... Brush painting is easy with these.... no complaints' with spraypainting either. ACRYLIC: Testors, and Vallejo. $5 for a bottle of acrylic but $2 for the Testors enamels. I seldom airbrush Vallejo. It is up to you to color match. Some brush and cover well , most don't . I Always get good result's. They brush very nicely and their red also covers very good. Model Master Enamels & Acrylics, Pollyscale, Aeromaster, Tamiya, LifeColor, Humbrol enamels, Akan Acrylics, Gunze/Mr. I also was just in the Mankato Hobby Lobby and noticed the same thing as you Don. I mostly build car models and motorcycles, so with Tamiya enamels and Tamiya sprays, I'm all set. Not all Hobby Lobby are alike.... Back in June weren’t you guys talking about MM discontinuing a big part of their enamel line,maybe that’s why they dont have as many. I’m just curious now as to their long term shelf life. Have used the little Testors enamel bottles my whole life. Granted I was looking into the acrylics anyhow but this will be my first crack at them. I started with Humbrols and now, after about 30 years of modelling most of my paints are Humbrols. I was hoping the shakeout would take a little longer. This applies to the tins as well as Model master and Testor little bottles and Tamiya .Clean your cap out every use and keep any build - up off the bottle and tin rims . Balance the price with your important needs which most or all should met with the best model airbrush under $200. To … Less than 1/4 of the rack was enamel, the great majority of the paints were acrylic. I know the "old guard" tends to favor enamels and laquers, back in the day they were superior and you folks have been working with them longer than some of us have been alive, so you'll find a lot of love expressed for enamels. Years later Polly " S " and Floquil ( I think Floquil was a lacquer). Brush painting is ok... ish. This isn’t the place to get into the whole enamel-versus-acrylic debate. No one is inherently better than the others, but rather, it's the technique. Cheap, too. I have recently been buying Hobby Lobby house brand acrylics . Thanks for your honest opinions! By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. For hand-brushing, I've learned to thin the paints. I have only recently aquired an airbrush and havent "Experimented" with it yet so I can only give my opinion on spray can's and brush painting. To participate you must either login or register for an account. I really dont care for acrylic paint but I suppose I can get use to it  of the 2 paints I preffer Testors. If you built models as a child, you may have painted your first by hand with a brush — and if you remember what those models looked like, you’ll recall why you switched to spraying paint. I think I have read that some are using the Vallejo paints with some success? I don't own an airbrush, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on brush painting everything. People keep mentioning the Eclipse though so if they ever go kaput or I royally screw them up while learning, I guess I know what to get next. And it seems every few months that another paint line appears. Enamels, and maybe conventional lacquers, are disappearing. Much easier to control than Testors' rattle cans. They produce a very fine mist which results in a nice paint finish. To accomplish a wet coat of primer without runs and loosing detail you need a large volume air brush, or a spray can like Tamiya offers for Fine Surface Primer. Artis Opus – Series S Brush Set. I will say that for acrylics, Humbrol is becoming my go to brand the more that I use them. Definitely a semi full line of the small square bottles of enamel paints. Take this for what it's worth but my local Hobbytown USA is closing and having an "everything must go" clearance sale. There are many things that an airbrush can do better than a paint brush and vice versa. So for me, it was time to start with acrylics. Im not knocking acrylics per se, I use them and enamels. Almost all beginners decide to brush-paint their first models. really depends on the color. One goal in modeling is to give each creation a good finish. ... Everyone is telling me Air brushing is the way I should go, but I like the idea of paint brushing better. Surprise ! Then there are other brands that didn't catch on with me - Revells feel like a clone of Humbrols, Testors - similar, but come in bottles that get stuck too often. It all depends on the area. I have gone back and forth with airbrushing, but I find I get such a great result with Tamiya sprays, and it's so much easier, that I just stick with that. Hand-brushing paint. well can't airbrush in the house in the winter ! Acrylics ? To get a smooth primer coat according to the article you need to spray a ‘Wet Coat’ and let it dry completely as a posed to several light coats like we do with finish paint. Some paint. With a carefully prepared surface, a good set of brushes, properly thinned paint, some decent craftsmanship and a ton of patience, truly amazing results can be achieved. Master Airbrush KIT-SP19-20. Before you choose a new paint brush: If you plan on painting models with a brush, whether it's the whole model, or just for fine detail work, there's a few things you may want to know about paint brushes before you buy them. Also, periodically dipping the brush in a container of water helps when brushing acrylics. But as that’s actually a big part of the scale model experience, we’re hoping you’ll bear with us. Downside - their colours all have "fantastic" names, so you have to do all the matching by yourself - that doesn't have to be bad, could get you some extra creativity and help with weathering and blending the figs with the environment. Since I have a few Vallejo acrylics now, looking online and found this: https://www.hobbylinc.com/vallejo-military-paint-set:plastic-storage-case-72-colors-brushes-hobby-and-model-paint-set-70173. Hobby & Craft. I have a stock of Tamiya and Vallejo bottles, and the Badger primer to try out, so hopefully I'll have a little more opinion to offer after. I know my original answer was long so I'll keep this short . Maybe something to clean the brushes. For years it was the Old Humbrol line , in the tins .Then Testors, well ,Testors in the little square bottles first . "Deck , Bleached Teak " was a color I used a lot . They are good for brush painting (although they used to be better) and for airbrush after thinning. I figure I had better learn to work with acrylics if I want to stay in this hobby. I use Testor enamels in the little square glass bottles; Model Master; Tamiya acrylics; Andrea; Vallejo; and craft store paints, for hand-brushing. I do care more about color accuracy. Using them you can paint a multi-coloured figure with shading, washes and so on in about two hours from start to finish with no odour and the colours go on on top of the other just wonderful. brushing takes a minute to get down but it lays out wonderfully - coverage varies by color - i always rough in a base color with an airbrush close to what I need and then start brushing . I see the handwriting on the wall. There's a different color from paint to paint on the two. Although this depends on the airbrush model and the paint you use (if the paint is more diluted, you need less pressure, and vice versa). $99.96. They had carried a pretty full line of all the major American and Japanese paint brands. 2. Maybe Testors acrylic doesn't hand brush really well on larger areas, but otherwise it's all the same to me. •Enamels tend to brush better than acrylics as they dry slower. Tamiyas - I only use their clears, they are OK. Gunze paints, H series - those are nice. Welcome to HyperScale's Discussion, Picture Posting & Trading Forums. For the T-34 I brushed on a camo pattern by hand after everything was built, and it looks a little sloppy. 5% coupon applied at checkout Save 5% with coupon. At the moment I have a Badger Renegade Krome, and a Paasche H1017 to use for primers and stuff. Landlady says " No Way Jose ". The only thing I don't care about the paints is the bottles, they aren't clear so can't tell really good if the paint is mixed well. And just think .This all happened with the Acrylic because some parents couldn't keep their Kiddos from eating stuff with lead based paint on it . But, I thinned it with stock low percent isopropyl, and it did work fine. I wouldn't shake my fist too hard at acrylics though, they've improved over the years for hobby use, they're convenient and more accessible for some, and I don't think it's fair to scoff and limit anyone's ability to enjoy the hobby because they use acrylics :p. I've used Testors and Tamiya spray cans. not without good reason though, they can look really darn nice. For British air and sea, it's really hard to beat White Ensign's Colourcoat for accuracy. ( Even when I dont ,it's not the paint's fault. Everyone has a slightly different approach to painting a model and you still see hand-painted models beating out airbrushed models on the contest tables. They can be thinned and re-used even if they dry rock-hard in the bottle. And what thins one brand quite well, turns another into rubbery goo. Their WW2 Japanese stuff seems good, but they don't really have good matches for British or any Navy subjects, IMO. F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town! Especially for hand brushing. Tamiya acrylics also are easy to use by hand. As far as clean up, I find that if you subscribe to the 3-soaks method or similar, cleaning Model Missions primer and paint out of your airbrush is a breeze. Airbrushing is often preferred by experienced modelers, but if you don't have airbrushing equipment, brush painting can still yield great results. I didn't attempt weathering either, so it still looks plastic. Another vote for Vallejo for hand brushing. On the other hand, Vallejo makes another “type” of model paint, called Model Air. Airbrush Paint. A model. I, myself use a wide variety of paint brands. I have very good results with these ! Paint. Unless you are an experienced painter using brushes and rollers can actually cause your paint to fail more quickly. This paint really is fun to shoot. Can't even see where I stopped to fix this Boo-Boo ! Lousy brushability and all that . 99. Spraypainting with Lacquer is the best as far as I'm concerned. The term paint thinner includes some really bad synthetic stuff that is junk for thinning enamels. In my studies and day to day practices, I have found the best way to apply paint is by applying with an airless sprayer and “back-brushing.” Back-brushing is the practice of brushing over paint that has been applied with either a roller or sprayer. Tamiya brand , Lousy brushability . Best Model Miniature Paint Brushes - Small Detail Paint Brush Set - 7 pcs Model Paint Brushes for Miniature Painting, Fine Detailing – Tiny, Mini, Micro Fine Detail Paint brushes kits. They need a primer before putting them down, but after that they are amazing. Unfortunately most of the paints I’ve used are Tamiya’s flats without any thinner, and it is so difficult, I … OK - thanks for reading, hope it helps, have a nice day. Definitely worth checking out. HOWEVER... brush painting large area's can leave brushstroke's. Main reason I got into Vallejo a few yrs ago, most do n't really have good for... 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